Writing, Wine, and Waterways: A French Memoir – 3 Week Itinerary From Paris to the French Countryside, to the Coast


From the bustling streets of Paris to the serene landscapes of the French countryside and the picturesque coastlines, this European adventure promises a unique blend of culture, exploration, and relaxation. Join me as we explore iconic landmarks, indulge in award-winning cuisine, and embark on a tranquil barge cruise along the historic Canal du Midi. This itinerary is not just a travel plan but a narrative waiting to unfold—a memoir in the making amidst the enchanting backdrop of France.

Utilize the itinerary to plan your dream vacation in France.

Here’s a condensed itinerary, but keep reading for more detailed descriptions of the destinations:

I can’t wait for this life-changing opportunity where I’ll return with a good start on my travel cookbook, plus an abundance of travel memoir, culture, food, and solo travel stories to publish.

PARIS – 2 Nights

Paris, the City of Light is the starting point of this French escape. For two days, I’ll immerse myself in the rich tapestry of art, history, and culture that defines this iconic metropolis. From the timeless allure of the Eiffel Tower to the artistic masterpieces housed within the Louvre, Paris offers a kaleidoscope of experiences waiting to be explored. Get ready to wander along charming cobblestone streets, savor exquisite French cuisine in quaint cafes, and marvel at the architectural wonders that line the banks of the Seine.

  • Day 1: Check-in at Hotel Montalembert – Situated in the heart of Paris’s elegant Saint-Germain-Des-Prés, Hotel Montalembert is a luxurious boutique hotel that epitomizes timeless elegance and contemporary comfort. Boasting a rich history dating back to 1926, this prestigious hotel has welcomed discerning travelers, artists, and intellectuals from around the world.
Savoyard fondue with porcini mushrooms and chanterelles at Le Vieux Bistrot
  • Dinner at Le Vieux Bistrot – Nestled in the heart of Paris’s historic Marais district, Le Vieux Bistrot invites you to experience the quintessential charm of a traditional French bistro. Stepping through its doors is like entering a bygone era, where the aroma of hearty French cuisine mingles with the chatter of locals and the clinking of glasses. With its cozy ambiance and rustic decor, Le Vieux Bistrot offers a warm and inviting atmosphere that makes you feel right at home. Indulge in classic French dishes crafted with care and precision, from tender coq au vin to rich beef bourguignon, each bite a delicious homage to the culinary heritage of France. Whether you’re seeking a romantic dinner for two or a lively gathering with friends, Le Vieux Bistrot promises an authentic taste of Parisian hospitality that will leave you longing to return.
  • Day 2: Paris in a Day Tour with Eiffel Tower, Louvre, and Seine River Cruise with The Tour Guy – Want to see the best of Paris in just one day? With long admission lines and attractions spread out over the city, this can be a real challenge. But don’t worry, this amazing tour makes it easy! Join a local guide to see the city’s iconic highlights, including the Louvre, Sacre-Cœur, Notre Dame, a Seine River Cruise, and the Eiffel Tower (entry times might fall outside of the tour time). With a small group, skip-the-line Louvre tickets, and transport, there’s no better way to see Paris in a day!

AGEN – 6 Nights

After a train ride from Paris to Agen, I’ll check in at Relais de Camont for a week-long writing residency working with an award-winning food and memoir writer, Kathy Gunst. We’ll start our days with a two-hour workshop, then spend the days writing in the countryside of southwest France.

Surrounded by rolling hills, sunflower fields, and vineyards, Relais de Camont is an artist’s retreat and destination where food and community converge. Helmed by Kate Hill, an award-winning food and memoir writer, this culinary haven celebrates the rich gastronomic heritage of Gascony, known for its hearty cuisine and exceptional local produce.

The facilitator, Kathy Gunst says of the residency:

“We will meet daily for a two-hour workshop each morning after breakfast to write, think, and talk about your project, and get inspired to spend the day writing. The day is yours after class- you can work all day, work for part of the day, as well as walk, explore, etc.… We will go to the markets and hopefully visit a local Armagnac producer.” 

BORDEAUX – 3 Nights

After the residency, I board the train for a short ride to Bordeaux. Check into Villas Foch for three nights.

Villas Foch Bordeaux

Bordeaux, often referred to as the “City of Wine,” is a vibrant and dynamic metropolis located in the heart of the renowned wine-producing region of southwestern France. Renowned for its exceptional wines, stunning architecture, and rich cultural heritage, Bordeaux offers a captivating blend of old-world charm and modern sophistication.

At the heart of Bordeaux lies the UNESCO-listed historic center, where centuries-old buildings line cobblestone streets, creating a picturesque backdrop for exploration. Discover architectural marvels such as the majestic Bordeaux Cathedral and the grand Place de la Bourse, adorned with its iconic reflecting pool. Stroll along the quays of the Garonne River, where 18th-century facades reflect in the shimmering waters and vibrant markets beckon with fresh produce and local delicacies.

Bordeaux’s reputation as a world-class wine destination is undeniable, with over 100,000 hectares of vineyards surrounding the city. Wine lovers can embark on tasting tours of prestigious châteaux in the nearby Bordeaux wine regions, such as Médoc, Saint-Émilion, and Pessac-Léognan, indulging in the flavors of renowned appellations like Margaux, Pauillac, and Saint-Julien.

Beyond its wine culture, Bordeaux boasts a thriving culinary scene, with Michelin-starred restaurants, cozy bistros, and lively cafés serving up delectable French cuisine. From traditional dishes like confit de canard to innovative creations by acclaimed chefs, Bordeaux offers a gastronomic journey that tantalizes the taste buds.

With its intoxicating blend of history, culture, and gastronomy, Bordeaux invites visitors to immerse themselves in its charm and sophistication, promising an unforgettable experience that captures the essence of French art de vivre.

  • Day 1: Check into Villas Foch for three nights. Discover this five-star hotel in the heart of Bordeaux, combining French refinement with 19th-century bourgeois elegance, featuring luxurious rooms, a vaulted cellar dedicated to well-being, and Le Ferdinand cocktail bar offering a selection of fine wines and tapas.
  • Private City tour of Bordeaux
Villas Foch Bordeaux
  • Day 2: Tour La Cité du Vin. Sensoria immersive wine tasting. It’s an essential destination dedicated to the world of wine, offering a unique experience blending daring architecture, temporary exhibitions, and tastings, for a complete immersion in global wine culture.
  • Lunch suggestion: Visit the Halles de Bacalan. At the heart of the Bassins à Flots district, the Halles de Bacalan have quickly become a must-visit destination for Bordeaux’s gastronomy scene, bringing together 22 local producers, artisans, and chefs in a lively space spanning over 1000m2, opposite the Cité du Vin.
  • Excursion in the vineyard of St Emilion with “Vert Bordeaux”. Explore Saint-Émilion, renowned for its wines and UNESCO-listed village since 1999, on a tour visiting two vineyards and the village, with food and wine pairing or Bordeaux specialties tasting included.
Halles de Bacalan
  • Day 3: Tour Pey Berland. The bell tower of Saint-André Cathedral, built in the 15th century, boasts a stunning viewpoint at 50 meters high after climbing 231 steps, crowned by a monumental statue of Notre Dame d’Aquitaine added in 1863
  • Musée d’Aquitaine : In this museum, you can explore Prehistory, Antiquity, the Middle Ages, the 18th century – the city’s golden age, and all the periods that have contributed to the region’s rich past.
  • CAPC : The contemporary art museum, located in a former colonial warehouse,
    features emerging trends in art with permanent collections on the second floor
    and regular temporary exhibitions in the main hall.
  • FRAC Nouvelle Aquitaine: based in the MÉCA, the Frac Nouvelle-Aquitaine
    supports contemporary art through its public collection of over 1300 works and
    by organizing exhibitions, as well as cultural and educational initiatives.

NARBONNE – 3 Nights

Narbonne, nestled in the picturesque Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France, is a city steeped in history, culture, and Mediterranean charm. From its ancient Roman roots to its vibrant markets and stunning natural landscapes, Narbonne offers a diverse array of experiences for visitors to explore.

At the heart of Narbonne stands the imposing Cathedral of Saint-Just and Saint-Pasteur, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture that dominates the city skyline. Nearby, the iconic Horreum Romanum, an underground Roman warehouse dating back to the 1st century AD, offers a fascinating glimpse into Narbonne’s rich Roman heritage.

The city’s bustling markets, such as Les Halles de Narbonne, brim with colorful stalls selling fresh produce, local specialties, and artisanal goods, inviting visitors to immerse themselves in the flavors and aromas of the region. Take a leisurely stroll along the historic Canal de la Robine, lined with charming cafés and restaurants, or explore the picturesque countryside of the Narbonnaise Regional Natural Park, where salt marshes, vineyards, and sandy beaches await.

Narbonne is also a gateway to the renowned wine-producing region of Languedoc, where visitors can indulge in wine tastings at nearby vineyards and domaines, sampling the region’s acclaimed wines such as Corbières, Minervois, and Fitou.

Whether you’re exploring its ancient landmarks, savoring its culinary delights, or simply soaking in its Mediterranean ambiance, Narbonne offers a captivating blend of history, culture, and natural beauty that promises an unforgettable experience in the south of France.

Chateau Capitoul terrace
  • Day 1: From Narbonne train station, transfer to Chateau Capitoul. In the evening: electric scooter or/and SPA or /and vineyard visit + wine tasting. Dinner at the restaurant ASADO, where you will discover a tasty and original cuisine, based on products cooked over a wood fire. Spend the night in the chateau.
  • Day 2 – Transfert to historic center
  • AM = Guided tour
  • Covered market « Les Halles »  = lunch in the market
  • PM  = Fontfroide Abbey ( visit and wine tasting )
  • 2 nights in the Mosaïque Hotel
Poolside at Mosaique Hotel
  • Day 3: Narbo Via museum (founded by Norman Foster)
  • Dinner and night in the Mosaïque hotel
Dinner at Mosaique Hotel

CANAL DU MIDI – 6 Nights

For the final week of the trip, a guest and I will be picked up in Narbonne for European Waterways’ Canal du Midi barge cruise.

Embark on a leisurely journey through the tranquil waters of the Canal du Midi with European Waterways‘ barge cruise, a quintessentially French experience that promises relaxation, luxury, and exploration. As you step aboard your floating oasis, you’ll be greeted by the warm hospitality of your dedicated crew, who will ensure your every need is met as you glide along the historic waterway.

The Canal du Midi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, meanders through the picturesque countryside of southern France, passing by charming villages, vineyards, and ancient landmarks along the way. From the sun-drenched vineyards of Languedoc to the shaded towpaths lined with plane trees, each bend in the canal reveals a new vista to admire and explore.

As you cruise, indulge in gourmet cuisine prepared by your onboard chef, featuring fresh, locally sourced ingredients paired with fine wines from the region. Relax on deck as you soak up the panoramic views or unwind in the comfort of your cabin, where every modern convenience awaits.

Throughout your journey, you’ll have the opportunity to disembark and explore the charming towns and villages that dot the canal’s banks, from the medieval fortress of Carcassonne to the lively markets of Beziers. Whether you’re cycling along scenic towpaths, visiting historic landmarks, or simply savoring the tranquility of the French countryside, your Canal du Midi barge cruise promises an unforgettable voyage through one of France’s most enchanting regions.

About European Waterways: Hotel Barging is a boutique, unique experience, that offers an immersive, all-inclusive “gentle voyage of discovery” that focuses on the culture, history, fine wine, and gourmet cuisine of the region. With a 6 to 20-person capacity and 1:2 crew ratio, European Waterways is able to provide an impeccable level of onboard service and can transport guests on the intimate inland waterways that are inaccessible to larger vessels. This fascinating network of smaller canals allows for flexibility, spontaneity, and ample opportunity to hop off and explore the beautiful surroundings via bicycle, or on foot. In addition to this, there are daily, chauffeured excursions “off the beaten track” to a wide variety of enthralling locations, from exquisite wine tastings to private tours of stately homes. With over 40 years of experience and a fleet that spans nine countries, it is the largest luxury hotel barging company in Europe.

PARIS – 1 Night

As the journey through France comes to an end, I’ll take the train from Narbonne to the Paris airport, spend the night at IBIS Hotel, then fly home the next morning.

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